As this is our last week here, I’m feeling a lot of mixed feelings. Especially this week, we’ve been focusing on the theme of gratitude. As I write this, we’re getting ready to have our final celebration tonight. It’ll be a great opportunity to celebrate everyone who helped make this trip possible and have a great time together. Over the past week, we’ve also spent time saying goodbye to our new friends here. These include George, who owns a small shop nearby, the Citadel, a local restaurant we like to go to, and Baquon, the local dance group. I’ve been thinking a lot about just how welcoming everyone is here. Everyone seems to want us to come back. This is just such a friendly place, and I’m going to miss being here. As we get ready to leave, we’ve also been thinking about how we’ll keep talking about what we’ve learned. The people here really inspire us with their resilience and resistance, and we hope to continue that in our own lives. It’s been a great honor that we’ve had so many locals tell us their stories, and it is our responsibility to share them. We have been so blessed by the hospitality and generosity given to us.

-Evan K. 

This week we had the pleasure of traveling to Jericho, the Jordan River, and the Dead Sea. Like all places here, there’s a lot of history in Jericho. We got to visit Hisham’s Palace and took a cable car up to the Mount of Temptation to visit a monastery and have a wonderful meal. At the Jordan River we saw what is remembered as where Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist. Being there was really cool (and so was the water). We didn’t spend much time there but it was worthwhile nonetheless. At the Dead Sea, we got the chance to float effortlessly among the salty waves. It stung our mosquito bites and burned our eyes if we were unfortunate enough to be struck that way. The cool mud on the floor of the sea offered us relief from the hot sun and left us feeling smooth. We also wrapped up our final group presentations this week. It was a semi-stressful final period of preparation for it but it was really cool to hear what our group mates had been researching the past few weeks. I thought everyone had really strong presentations to share and I learned a lot on the day of the presentations. My time here seriously flew by and this final week has felt very bittersweet. I have a lot to look forward to back in the States but I’m going to miss so many things about this journey and this place. I really hope to return one day.

–Seth S. 

Free Travel Reflections

This week was our free travel week- our big group split into several smaller ones, traveling to various different places. I was a part of a group of five that went to Greece! We left very early Monday morning, drove to the airport and were in Athens by Monday morning.

We had a few big things we wanted to do and see, but no strict itinerary so that we could just explore freely. We visited the Acropolis and saw many ancient ruins there as well as scattered throughout the city. We got a chance to explore some beautiful neighborhoods at the base of the Acropolis, all with beautiful colors and plants, hidden in tiny winding alleyways. One of my favorite parts of the trip was visiting the Athens National Garden. There were beautiful flowers and trees everywhere, as well as a lot of ducks, turtles, and other wildlife.

It was wonderful to see the sights in Athens, but we also had a lot of fun exploring, relaxing, and seeing new things. Some fond memories were made navigating through the public transportation system every day, riding buses and trains to go everywhere. These bus rides gave us the opportunity to read signs and try and teach ourselves the Greek alphabet. Although we did eat out, we also made a lot of meals which gave us the opportunity to visit grocery stores, which is one of my favorite ways to be exposed to new cultures. We also just spent many hours sitting on the beach, sifting through rocks, pocketing our favorite ones or sorting them by color. A lot of joy came from little things like these.

Overall, the trip was a wonderful excursion, filled with a good amount of both adventure and rest!

–Iris A. 

Free travel this past week was amazing. It had its ups and down as expected, but was so much more than I had thought it would be! Kristina, Greta, Afton and I, all traveled to Jordan for a few days. Our first day was spent traveling from Beit Sahour to Wadi Rum where we met with our guide that took us on a desert tour and showed us all the beautiful landmarks in the area. We walked through canyons, drove down sand dunes, tried learning stick shift and drank SO much tea! That night after we got to our camp we went star gazing with our guide and one of their friends. We sat around a fire, drank more tea, and shared riddles. Being in such a relaxed environment made it so easy to talk to the locals and get to know them, their culture, and general way of life. They live so differently than we do back in the US but yet there are so many similarities between us. I really enjoyed looking up at the stars and knowing that I would see the same ones when I got back home. The next 2 days were spent in Petra where we saw the ruins and made new friends (all animals). We spent a good amount of our time in Petra resting which was the best thing we could have done. After going through the checkpoint getting back into Israel we were all exhausted and shocked by how dehumanizing the experience was. Even though we were such a large group and went through faster than everyone else, it was monotonous and overwhelming. I am grateful for my American passport because it made my life 1,000 times easier than those with Palestinian identification, but my heart goes out to them all that much more. With every wonderful experience I have here in the Middle East, I am struck by the reminder of my privilege. It’s not easy, but if there is anything I have learned so far it is that knowledge is power, knowledge fights injustice, and we should all demand knowledge.

–Savannah S.

Digging Deeper 

Our fifth week of the Middle East Intercultural offered an opportunity for free travel – a chance to “explore” countries and communities surrounding Palestine. Dreading the prospect of another plane ride and the nerves that come with leaving and re-entering Israel, I decided to stay put in our guest house in Beit Sahour. I was craving the chance to dig deeper into this place I’ve come to know as home over the past four weeks. At the end of our first week in Palestine, we traveled as a group to Jerusalem. The experience was jarring and unsettling as many of us struggled to reconcile the reality of being in the Holy Land while witnessing constant military presence at sacred sites. So when I had the opportunity to return, at a slower pace with a smaller group, I was ecstatic. My second trip to Jerusalem was difficult for the same reasons but also offered me many joyful experiences – experiences like getting tattoos with friends that had been designed centuries ago. After four weeks, our Arabic was significantly better as well (at least our confidence in it was) which was an easy bridge to new friendships in parts of the old city. I held a lot of gratitude for that do-over trip and a week of spaciousness.

–Jessica C. 

On Saturday we were able to visit the Ayalon-Canada Park in what is, under international law, legally the West Bank, but is annexed by Israel. As we traveled to the park, we passed through the Bethlehem checkpoint where an Israeli soldier boarded our bus, checked our passports, and let us pass. That moment was one of many reminders that we, as Americans, can travel freely. Had we been Palestinians trying to visit a place that is legally Palestine, it would have been much more difficult.

Once we reached the park, we were met by Umar, who works with the organization Zochrot. Their mission is to spread knowledge pertaining to the Nakba and Palestinian history to Israelis. He led us through what looks like a typical park with stone pathways and picnic tables, but we soon learned that this had been the site of the ‘Imwas village until 1967 when the Israeli military forced residents from their homes and destroyed them. The stones lining the paths were rubble from bulldozed houses, and the large open areas had once been the center of the village. As we have learned about the Nakba these past four weeks, I still didn’t understand the scale or feel the impact of all the destruction. Even as I try to explain, I know I’m unable to capture how it felt. To know that Palestinian villages were destroyed is one thing. To trip over the partially-hidden remains of someone’s roof is something completely different.

Throughout the trip, we have been dealing with the idea of erasure. The reality of Ayalon-Canada Park is a reality of erased history. Umar and Zochrot advocate for signs marking the Palestinian villages that were destroying and honoring the people who have the legal right to return to their homes. As long as this history is erased, there cannot be justice.

–Greta S.

On Saturday evening this week, we stayed in Nazareth and heard from Bader Mansour at the Nazareth Center for Peace Studies. Bader is a Palestinian Christian but has an Israeli passport and these intersections can cause complications. One of the first things he said that stood out to me is “We (Palestinians) are citizens, but not equal citizens.”

He told us about his journey of going to university for computer science and being 1 of the 2 Arab students out of a class of 100, and how after college had difficulties finding a job because of the Israeli discrimination against Palestinians. What stood out to me about this discrimination is the similarities between Palestinian discrimination and racism in the U.S., where it is all too common that BIPOC individuals will not get job interviews, jobs, houses, and the list goes on and on. How can we fully understand and address the Palestine/Israel conflict without recognizing the own injustices within the U.S.?

Bader went on to talk about his experience working in the Silicon Valley in the U.S., and then deciding to move back to Israel because of his family’s feeling of obligation to be peacemakers. After working as a minority Arab in larger Israeli computer companies, he ended up creating his own software company and has been at it for 25 years!

His understanding of the Palestine/Israeli conflict stood out to me – he said that the only way for this to be solved is for people to be willing to understand the other side more and have fewer judgments, as well as go and experience life [walking in] someone else’s shoes rather than just hearing about it. These reflections inspire me to work towards better change in the U.S. as well as to advocate against injustices everywhere!

–Jenna W.

We’ve officially made it to the halfway point of our trip! Our week started off with our 4 days of classes (Arabic and seminar). Although I do enjoy both of those classes, I was definitely more entertained with our travels this week. The first place we went to was Aida Refugee Camp in Bethlehem. Dr. Abdefattah Abusrour spoke to us about the history of the camp along with about Al Rowwad Culture and Arts Society and their work within the camp. One of the main reasons for having started the organization was for the reason of “beautiful resistance” as Abusrour put it. By showing kids different art forms to express themselves, the organization aims to give them hope and also “a chance to live for their country and not just die for it.” After hearing from him we were able to spend some time with some kids from the camp. A group of us played board games and did face painting while the other group did more movement-based games. In the movement group, the kids taught us games that they

play, a dance they love, and some even showed us their special talents (mostly cartwheels). Even though there was a language barrier, we still found ways to communicate and connect with each other. Although they have to live and grow up within a refugee camp, they still had so much joy in their hearts to share with us. Sharing smiles and laughter with them will definitely be one of the things I will not forget about this trip. On our trip the word sumud has been a common theme. It means steadfastness or steadfast perseverance. No matter where we have visited, the sumud of the people of Palestine is so prevalent. Their strength is a true inspiration and incredibly hope giving. I’m excited to continue to learn about the history and culture of Palestine and listen to the stories of people we meet in the next few weeks.

–Alexa L.

This week our theme was “Listen” and throughout our week we practiced that. We had speakers come and talk to us about their work and also the things they are facing due to the occupation. We also visited two refugee camps over our weekend, Aida and Balata camp. Aida camp is located in Bethlehem, and while we were at Aida camp we spent our time with Al Rowwad Culture and Arts Society. And Balata camp is located around Nablus and while we were there we visited Yafa Center.

During our visit to Al Rowwad Center, we had a chance to talk with the founder and director of the center Abdelfattah Abusrour who gave us a brief explanation of the center and also what they do there. After that we had a chance to look at their new building where they have a guest house and spaces for various studies. We went to the rooftop and we got to see the camp as a whole. From where we were standing we were able to see two other refugee camps and also the wall which was pretty close by. And we had time to play games with the children there and before we left we did a dance with them. This was a really impactful experience for our group, with everything that was around them the kids had a space for them to just be themselves. And from our conversations with the director it was clear to see Sumud (steadfastness) in the work that they do and also in their unwillingness to give up.

-Fiker Y.

مرحبا!

Week three brought with it new friends, new experiences, and new struggles as we continued our studies here in Beit Sahour. The pages of my little notebook are filling quickly with poetry, statistics, Arabic vocabulary, and notes from our daily reading assignments, and journaling became a welcome practice to name my thoughts and experiences. It’s been comforting to feel established in one place. We’re all growing familiar with the city around us and enjoy excursions to get ice cream and coffee after our studies! The walls of our guest house are plastered with lists of Arabic words and phrases and polls about pineapple on pizza (among other fun things). As we all practice mindfulness together, I’m noticing small things to appreciate like the writing callouses on my hand and the soft, spongy texture of the pita we eat with each meal. The days have a rhythm to them; meals are always spent together at the table with classes, four square, and (of course) befriending stray cats in between. This week’s great excursion was to two nearby cities: Ramallah and Nablus. Some of my highlights included searching for fossils and identifying local herbs, eating knafeh hot from a street vendor, and face painting for a group of kids! 

It’s been fulfilling to grow into new relationships with this group of people. Each day we feel more comfortable with each other and we’re able to laugh and work and cry together in a way that I feel is unique to this experience. Even when we are exhausted, we find a way to support each other. We’ve grown close to our hosts here at the guest house and have also been establishing new relationships with local organizations and educators. The more connections we make, the more that many of us feel we will need to return someday for volunteer work or just to visit our newfound buddies. 

I have deeply admired the widespread passion for beauty baked into the culture here. Everywhere we go, art covers the streets. Music plays from loudspeakers in boisterous and joyful celebration. Everyone enjoys eating together and laughing and sharing stories. There’s a care for the collective and a sense of togetherness that I’m growing to love! Not to mention everyone’s outstanding generosity, for which I am so grateful. 

Many of us have tired minds and bodies as we prepare for week four. Nonetheless, we find ourselves doing good work. Each day, we are full of gratitude and there are many things to look forward to! 

يعطيك العافيه!

-Afton R.-L.

We are beginning to find our rhythm, waking up for breakfast at 7:30am, attending Arabic class, and then our seminar class after lunch with potential evening adventures. I have deeply enjoyed building new friendships and learning new things about amazing people in our group and locally in Beit Sahour.

The first excitement of the week was experiencing a sandstorm for the first time. Sandstorms are not like the movies, but they do kick up lots of dust and sand to where the air quality is much poorer. The same day, we welcomed the last three people of our group to Palestine. Afton, Iris, and Savannah were on tour with EMU Chamber Singers around Europe.

I am in the Arabic 1 class, and this week we learned the Arabic terms for the parts of the body, numbers, and identified alphabet letters within an Arabic word. I feel like I am learning a lot and faster than I normally would learn a language because I am so ingrained into the culture here and practicing Arabic daily.

The seminar topic for this week was connecting religion and the conflict of Palestine-Israel, specifically focusing on Christian Zionism. We enjoyed hearing from John Munayer, a professor at a nearby Bible college, and we enjoyed visiting WI’AM, a local organization known as the Palestinian Conflict Transformation Center. John provided insight into Christian Zionism and spoke about the struggle Christian Palestinians face between understanding what the Bible says and what the secular world says. Zoughbi Alzoughbi and Tarek Alzoughbi from WI’AM, on the other hand, provided each of us insight into peaceful conflict transformation within the local community we are living in for 6 weeks.

Last to mention, we recently have begun playing four-square in the front courtyard of our guest house. We have been engaged for hours!

-Karla H.

This Friday was probably my favorite day that we have had so far. I had a lovely breakfast with my roommate and host, Widad (who happens to also be my Arabic teacher). As we drove she waved to most people (it seems that she has taught at least 2/3 of the people in Beit Sahour). Next, we went on a hike in the Makhrour near Bethlehem. It was lovely. It was one of the few times on this trip in which I felt truly at peace. It was amazing to look at the terraces dressed with olive, pine, and oak trees and dusted with wildflowers and cacti. I thoroughly enjoyed seeing the Roman Watch tower and the small Roman Bath House along the way, since I took Latin for four years and generally have interest in all things Ancient Roman.

Next, we headed to our taxi driver’s house for tea, which I think is a fantastic example of how friendly the Palestinians are. His family was kind and welcoming, and the tea was great too. They also had a cat named Oscar! He was the first house cat we had come by, and he enjoyed being petted too, which is good because I consider petting cats one of my talents. Finally, we had a fantastic lunch, walked around Bethlehem, and then we rested.

I have come to the conclusion that Saturdays are going to be our emotionally taxing days, however, meaning full and worth it. We visited two amazing organizations, CPT (which documents the human rights violations Israeli soldiers commit, especially against children in Hebron) and Youth of Sumud (whose work includes building cave homes for Palestinians that would be difficult to destroy by Settlers and protecting Palestinian children on their way to school from them too). I have a lot of respect for them and the bravery and grit it must take to do this work.

-Kristina S.

On May 13th, at 10:33 pm we arrived at our guesthouse in Beit Sahour after 30 hours of traveling. We were immediately greeted with open arms by our hosts and a large array of Palestinian foods. The hospitality and welcome towards us has been a common theme during our time here.

Our first week in Palestine-Israel has been packed full of adventures, learning, and memorable experiences. On Sunday, our first day, we were introduced to the city of Bethlehem by our tour guide Edmond. We visited the Shepherd’s Field, Church of the Nativity, and the streets of both the Old and New cities. We also ate our first of many falafel sandwiches.

This first week has had it’s challenges as well. Through jet lag, covid impacting a few of our group members, and long days, this week has had its difficulties as we adjust to a new place and culture.

An ever-present topic throughout this trip in both the experiences and conversations we have is the occupation of Palestine by the Israeli government and military. Although we have been reading and talking about this in class, witnessing the effects of the occupation firsthand has been saddening and angering for many of the members of our group.

Despite this, the resilience and perseverance of the Palestinian people is ever-present. We saw this when we went to visit the Tent of Nations, where the Nassar family continues to fight a 33-year court battle for the rights to their land surrounded by Israeli settlements that are illegal under national law. Despite the Nassar family owning and having the papers for the land dating back to the Ottoman Empire, they are barred from building or creating waterlines on their own land. We were blessed with the opportunity to contribute to their fight by volunteering to weed around the newly planted olive trees that replace those destroyed by the Israeli military.

We also see the fight against injustice present in the many Palestinian organizations that are focused on nonviolent resistance. We had both Omar Haramy from the Sabeel organization and George Rishmawi from the Rapprochement Center speak to our group. Hearing their stories and their fight against injustice was something that our class was highly appreciative of.

Our visit to Jerusalem on the 20th shared similar difficulties. The tension within the city was apparent. The touristic appearance and military presence within what is considered a holy city made many feel uncomfortable. Despite this, it was incredible to see historical religious sites. The beauty and tranquility of the Mount of Olives was an experience for many of comfort and connection.

Two of the last nights of this week have been spent with our host families. The amount of love and care Alexa, Greta, and I received staying with our host family was overwhelming. From taking us out to get kanafa, a traditional (and delicious!) Palestinian dessert, to inviting us to spend time with their extended family, the love was apparent. With the English our host family knew and what little Arabic we knew, as well as some help from trusty google translate, being able to get to know each other was a blessing. At the end of this week, my host mom referred to the three of us as their daughters and that we are always welcome in their home if we ever return. This welcome was not an uncommon one. Every member of our group shared similar stories of the welcome and love they received. One common experience that we smiled and laughed about was the continued insistence that we eat more. Even when we stated we were full, our host parents continued to put food on our plates and insisted we had more room in our stomachs. It was clear to all of us that this was an act of hospitality and love.

Our first week in Palestine has also been filled with an incredible amount of joy. From learning the traditional Palestinian dance to sharing food and laughter, the love for this place and each other is apparent. Although we have only been here a week, both myself and others have already grown to love both the country and people of Palestine. We all look forward to many more experiences of adventure and learning that we have yet to experience in the coming weeks.

-Abby G.

A few photos from the first 10 days!